If you have had a Negroni or a Spritz, you have drunk amaro and probably not known it. The category is one of the most interesting and least understood in spirits, especially outside Italy. Once you have the framework, you start to see amari everywhere.
What amaro is
"Amaro" means "bitter" in Italian. As a spirit category, it refers to Italian herbal liqueurs infused with a mixture of botanicals (roots, barks, herbs, citrus peels, spices, sometimes flowers) and sweetened to varying degrees. Most range from 16% to 35% ABV, sweeter and lower-proof than spirits but more concentrated than wine.
The category developed in 19th-century Italy, initially as medicinal tonics ("digestivos" served after meals to aid digestion). Most modern amari started as monastic or apothecary recipes. The medicinal framing has mostly faded but the after-dinner ritual has not; in Italy, an amaro at the end of a meal is the most-natural conclusion to dinner.
The two main categories
Most amari fall into one of two broad categories:
Aperitivo: lighter, sweeter, lower in alcohol. Served before meals to open the appetite. Campari, Aperol, Cynar (sort of), Cocchi Americano (technically an aromatised wine but used similarly).
Digestivo: heavier, drier, often more bitter and herbal. Served after meals. Fernet-Branca, Averna, Amaro Nonino, Montenegro, Ramazzotti.
This split is loose; some amari work in both contexts.
The most-important amari to know
Campari. Bright red, bitter, citrus-forward. The Negroni amaro. Originally coloured with cochineal (insects); now uses food-grade red dye. About 25% ABV. Bitter enough that it takes getting used to; once you have, it becomes the default aperitivo.
Aperol. Orange, lighter, less bitter than Campari. About 11% ABV. The Spritz amaro. Sweet enough that it works as a casual aperitif for drinkers new to bitter.
Cynar. Made from artichoke leaves (yes, really). Dark brown, vegetal, slightly sweet, complex bitter. About 16.5% ABV. Used in cocktails like the Cynar Toronto and the Cyn-Cyn. Surprisingly versatile.
Fernet-Branca. The hardest amaro for most drinkers. Very bitter, very herbal, very medicinal (it contains 27 botanicals including myrrh and saffron). 39% ABV. Argentinians drink it mixed with Coca-Cola; San Francisco bartenders drink it as a shot (the "bartender's handshake"). Worth tasting once even if you do not become a regular drinker.
Averna. Sicilian. Sweet, caramel-leaning, citrus-and-spice. About 29% ABV. One of the easier amari to start with; drinks like a complex Coca-Cola in some ways.
Amaro Nonino. From Friuli. Lighter colour, lighter flavour profile, more elegant. About 35% ABV. Sometimes used in cocktails (the Paper Plane is the most-famous) as a softer bitter than Campari.
Montenegro. Bologna. Bright, citrus and herbal, gentle. About 23% ABV. A common gateway amaro for drinkers new to the category.
Ramazzotti. Milan. Sweet, slightly chocolatey, easy. About 30% ABV. Drinks well on rocks or with soda.
Bràulio. From the Alps. Made with mountain herbs; piney, almost minty. About 21% ABV. Particularly distinct.
How to drink amari neat
Most amari are designed to be served chilled or over a single large ice cube, with no additions. The texture is usually thick and syrupy; the flavour is complex enough to study slowly. A 45ml pour over ice with a strip of orange peel is the standard service for digestivo amari.
For aperitivo amari (Campari, Aperol), the more common service is mixed: Campari and soda, Aperol Spritz, or in cocktails like the Negroni.
Cocktails built on amaro
The amaro category is the foundation of more cocktails than people realise.
- Negroni: gin, Campari, sweet vermouth.
- Boulevardier: bourbon, Campari, sweet vermouth.
- Aperol Spritz: Aperol, prosecco, soda.
- Americano: Campari, sweet vermouth, soda.
- Garibaldi: Campari, fresh orange juice.
- Jungle Bird: dark rum, Campari, pineapple, lime.
- Paper Plane: bourbon, Amaro Nonino, Aperol, lemon. A modern classic, equal parts.
- Cyn-Cyn: Cynar, sweet vermouth, soda (a Cynar Americano).
- Hanky Panky: gin, sweet vermouth, Fernet-Branca.
- Black Manhattan: rye, Averna instead of sweet vermouth, bitters.
If you find you like one amaro, the next step is to try its category neighbours. Drinkers who love Campari often graduate to Averna; drinkers who love Aperol sometimes find their way to Nonino.
What we use most at the bar
Our backbar typically has Campari, Aperol, Cynar, Averna, Amaro Nonino, and Fernet-Branca in steady rotation. Smaller bottles of less-common amari come and go depending on what we find.
If you have not had an amaro at the end of dinner, ask for a small pour next time you are at the bar. After a meal it makes sense in a way a cocktail rarely does.
The local angle
Italian amari travel well to Malaysian climate; the herbal bitter character works as a counterweight to rich Malaysian food in ways that are quite specific. A Fernet after laksa is genuinely effective; the menthol and herbal bitter neutralise the residual chilli on the palate. We had not heard of this pairing anywhere; we discovered it by accident one night with staff dinner. It works.
There is also a tiny but growing global movement of Asian amari (Japanese yuzu amari, Chinese herbal amari) that are starting to filter into bars. The category is still evolving. Worth watching.
One small note
The first time you have Fernet-Branca, do not drink it expecting to like it. Drink it expecting to find out whether you like it. About one in three people fall in love immediately; another third hates it instantly; the middle third learn to appreciate it over time. There is no shame in any of the three.
If you want to taste a small flight of amari at the bar, just ask. We will pour three contrasting bottles and walk you through the differences.
Frequently asked questions
What is amaro?
Amaro is Italian for bitter; as a spirit category it covers Italian herbal liqueurs infused with roots, barks, herbs, citrus peels, and spices then sweetened to varying degrees. Most range from 16 to 35 percent ABV. The category developed in 19th-century Italy as medicinal digestivos and is now the foundation of drinks from Campari Spritz to Negroni to Paper Plane.
Which amaro should I start with?
Montenegro from Bologna is a common gateway: bright, citrusy, gentle, around 23 percent ABV. Averna from Sicily is the next easy step, sweeter and caramel-leaning. If you already drink Campari, graduate to Cynar (artichoke-based, vegetal) or Amaro Nonino. Save Fernet-Branca for last; very bitter, very medicinal, very polarising.
What's the difference between aperitivo and digestivo amari?
Aperitivo amari are lighter, sweeter, and lower in alcohol, served before meals to open the appetite (Campari, Aperol, Cynar, Cocchi Americano). Digestivo amari are heavier, drier, often more bitter and herbal, served after meals to aid digestion (Fernet-Branca, Averna, Montenegro, Amaro Nonino, Ramazzotti). The split is loose and some amari work in both contexts.
Can I substitute one amaro for another in a Negroni?
Yes, but the drink changes character. Swapping Campari for Cynar gives a softer, more vegetal Negroni; Averna gives a sweeter, caramel-leaning Black Manhattan style; Amaro Nonino gives a more elegant, less aggressive bitter. None of these are wrong, they are different drinks. Adjust the gin and vermouth ratio slightly if the amaro is sweeter than Campari.
How does amaro pair with Malaysian food?
Surprisingly well. The herbal-bitter character acts as a counterweight to rich Malaysian dishes. Fernet-Branca after laksa is genuinely effective; the menthol and herbal bitter neutralise residual chilli on the palate. We discovered the pairing by accident at staff dinner and now use it deliberately. A small Averna closes any Chinese banquet meal cleanly.