Mezcal is the most-stratified spirit category. Three production tiers, dozens of agave species, hundreds of small producers, and a regulatory framework (NOM-070) that is unusually granular. The basic "smoky tequila" framing misses almost all of what makes mezcal interesting. Here is the working map.

The three production categories

The Mexican government regulates mezcal through three production tiers based on how traditional the methods are:

1. Mezcal Ancestral. The strictest. Agaves cooked in earthen pit ovens, crushed by hand or with a horse-drawn tahona (stone mill), fermented in wooden tanks or animal-skin tanks, distilled in clay pots (not copper or stainless steel). This is mezcal made the way it was made 300 years ago. Tiny production, very expensive.

2. Mezcal Artesanal. The mid-tier. Agaves cooked in pit ovens or above-ground masonry ovens, crushed by tahona or mechanical mill, fermented in wood, leather, or stone, distilled in copper or clay pots. The "craft mezcal" category where most respected brands sit.

3. Mezcal (no descriptor). Industrial production allowed. Diffusers, autoclaves, column stills permitted. The mass-market category. Most cheap mezcal lives here.

For drinkers seeking real mezcal character: look for "Artesanal" or "Ancestral" on the label.

The agave species

Mezcal can be made from any agave species (unlike tequila, which is only from blue agave). Each species produces a distinctive flavour:

Espadín. The workhorse. Cultivated, ready to harvest at 6-8 years, gives 90% of mezcal production. Balanced smoke and earth.

Tobalá. Wild, slow-growing (12-15 years), small. Floral, delicate, herbal. The "premium" wild agave.

Tepeztate. Wild, very slow (15-25 years). Vegetal, herbal, almost minty.

Madrecuixe. Wild, savoury, mineral, earthy.

Cuixe and Mexicano. Wild, both producing distinctive but rare bottlings.

Arroqueño. Wild, fruity and tropical-forward.

A bottle labelled "Espadín" will taste different from one labelled "Tobalá" even from the same distiller. The species matters more than the brand.

The regions

Mezcal is produced in nine Mexican states under the appellation. Each region has its own profile:

Oaxaca: 85% of all mezcal. The reference region. Strong smoke, dense agave character.

Durango: the "Cenizo" agave style. Heavier, more vegetal.

Guerrero: emerging, often lighter and more herbal.

San Luis Potosí, Zacatecas, Michoacán, Puebla, Tamaulipas, Guanajuato: smaller production, often regional-specific styles.

The ageing question

Like tequila, mezcal has joven (unaged), reposado (2-12 months), and añejo (12+ months). The strong purist position: do not age mezcal. The smoke and agave character of unaged mezcal is the point, and oak ageing covers it. Most respected producers (Del Maguey, Vago, Mezcal Vago) bottle predominantly joven.

An exception: pechuga mezcal, where the spirit is re-distilled with fruit, spices, and a chicken or turkey breast hanging in the still. A Oaxacan tradition for festivals. Smoky, fruity, distinctive.

What to actually buy in KL

Entry-level espadín (RM 250-400): Del Maguey Vida, Montelobos, Banhez. The brands that introduced most drinkers to real mezcal.

Mid-range single-village (RM 450-650): Del Maguey Single Village series (San Luis del Río, Chichicapa, Minero), Vago Espadín, Mezcal Vago Elote (corn-infused).

Wild agave (RM 700-1,500): Del Maguey Tobalá, Vago Tobalá, Mezcal Vago Madrecuixe. The category for serious mezcal drinkers.

Ultra-premium (RM 1,500+): single-batch from cult distillers, ancestral-grade bottlings. Drink at a bar by the pour, not by the bottle.

Mezcal in cocktails

Mezcal works in cocktails but needs careful integration. The smoke can dominate. Two approaches:

1. Replace half the tequila. Margarita with 30ml tequila + 30ml mezcal. Smoke-tequila hybrid that retains drinkability.

2. Use mezcal as a float or rinse. A teaspoon of mezcal floated on top of a finished cocktail adds aroma without dominating.

Classic mezcal cocktails: Mezcal Negroni (mezcal-Campari-vermouth), Mezcal Last Word (mezcal-Chartreuse-maraschino-lime), Oaxacan Old Fashioned (tequila + mezcal stirred over sugar and Angostura).

See our mezcal vs tequila and tequila aging spectrum for the broader category map.

Related reading

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between Mezcal Ancestral, Artesanal, and Mezcal?

Three production tiers under NOM-070. Ancestral is strictest: earthen pit ovens, hand or tahona crushing, wood or animal-skin fermentation, clay-pot distillation. Artesanal is the craft tier with pit or masonry ovens, copper or clay stills. Mezcal alone is the industrial category with diffusers and column stills.

Which agave species should I look for?

Espadín is the workhorse, 6-8 years to maturity, giving 90 percent of production with balanced smoke and earth. Tobalá is wild and slow (12-15 years), floral and delicate. Tepeztate is herbal-minty. Madrecuixe is mineral. Arroqueño is fruity. The species often matters more than the brand.

Should mezcal be aged like tequila?

The strong purist position: do not age mezcal. Smoke and agave character is the point, and oak ageing covers it. Most respected producers bottle predominantly joven. An exception is pechuga, re-distilled with fruit, spices, and a chicken or turkey breast hanging in the still, a Oaxacan festival tradition.

Can I substitute mezcal for tequila in a Margarita?

Yes, but smoke can dominate. Replace half the tequila: 30ml tequila plus 30ml mezcal gives a hybrid that retains drinkability. Alternatively, use mezcal as a float or rinse, a teaspoon on top adds aroma without dominating. Classic builds include Mezcal Negroni and Oaxacan Old Fashioned.

Where can I drink mezcal in PJ?

Both bars stock a working mezcal shelf. Dissolved Solids at 43-1 Jalan SS20/11 Damansara Kim keeps espadín, single-village, and wild agave bottlings; WhatsApp +60 11-4008 7607 to ask for a flight. Soluble Solids at 50-1 Jalan SS2/24 builds Mezcal Negronis on request; WhatsApp +60 11-1682 8651.